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On mass transport of progressive edge waves
Mok K.M.1; Harry Yeh2
1999
Source PublicationPhysics of Fluids
ISSN1070-6631
Volume11Issue:10Pages:2906-2924
Abstract

The boundary-layer solutions for progressive edge waves on a uniformly sloping beach are derived. The Larangian mass transport in the cross-shore direction is found to be caused by the viscous effect and it changes direction within the boundary layer. For validation of the theoretical model, laboratory experiments are performed. The measured mass transports of mode 0 and 1 edge waves are in good agreement with the theory qualitatively but not quantitatively. The discrepancies appear to be caused by the failure of the theory near the shoreline, where the boundary layer is no longer thin. The inviscid Stokes drift caused by the nonlinear interactions of different edge-wave modes within the potential flow field is also investigated theoretically and verified by experiments. It is found that near-shore circulation cells can be formed by the nonlinear interactions between different progressive edge-wave modes. 

DOI10.1063/1.870149
URLView the original
Indexed BySCIE
Language英語English
WOS Research AreaMechanics ; Physics
WOS SubjectMechanics ; Physics, Fluids & Plasmas
WOS IDWOS:000082405300013
PublisherAMER INST PHYSICS, CIRCULATION FULFILLMENT DIV, 500 SUNNYSIDE BLVD, WOODBURY, NY 11797-2999 USA
Scopus ID2-s2.0-5844241507
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Citation statistics
Document TypeJournal article
CollectionDEPARTMENT OF CIVIL AND ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING
Faculty of Science and Technology
Affiliation1.Faculty of Science and Technology, University of Macau, P.O. Box 3001, Macau Harry Yeh
2.Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington 98195
First Author AffilicationFaculty of Science and Technology
Recommended Citation
GB/T 7714
Mok K.M.,Harry Yeh. On mass transport of progressive edge waves[J]. Physics of Fluids, 1999, 11(10), 2906-2924.
APA Mok K.M.., & Harry Yeh (1999). On mass transport of progressive edge waves. Physics of Fluids, 11(10), 2906-2924.
MLA Mok K.M.,et al."On mass transport of progressive edge waves".Physics of Fluids 11.10(1999):2906-2924.
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