China is the nation that borders the most countries. Despite the presence of heavily guarded checkpoints along the borders, shadow exchanges and smuggling activities proliferate across borders. The prevalence of unregulated activities in a highly regulated space underlines the nature of informal governance at China’s borders. This form of governance assumes a heightened importance under the Belt and Road Initiative. Effective governance at the border depends on the state authorities’ skilful manipulation of the formal and informal regimes. Formal customs rules and informal practices are enforced at different time-space conjunctures to maintain a precarious balance between flexible adaptiveness and the sovereign authority of the state. As such, the lack of uniformity and consistency in border governance is in essence a technique of rule that contributes to the resilience of the Chinese state.